Here is more information on

Mehess Magnetic Motor

originally designed by: Bill Mehess

Here is an interview between Bill and American Anti-Gravity

( this is the audio file interview. Right click on this link and choose save as )

The audio Interview in zip format:

Download:

http://rapidshare.com/files/133724922/Bill-Mehess-Interview.zip

Archive Password: larrylawrencejr.com

I have invented a device that can be classified as a permanent magnetic
motor. The object of this invention is to show that a magnetic motor can
be built that will power itself and produce extra voltage to be able to
power an external load.

Advantage

The advantage of this device is that it can produce electricity
with no external input. It is not area specific, does not require wind,
hydro, sunlight, petrol fuel or any other other product or products to
work. It is a totally closed loop system.

History

The problem with these types of inventions has been that electrical
energy must be created on a immediate and on going basis to run the
device. Usually a number of permanent magnets are attempted to be
configured to cause rotation. Up to one rotation can be achieved but
when the magnet return to its original point it gets stuck. This has
been referred to as “the sticky point”. At this point it requires more
power than can be generated by the one rotation to start the magnet
moving again.
Even spinning the magnet(s) at high speed which may cause it to appear
to be functioning will in time slow down and stop.

Drawings

See page ____

List Of Parts

See page ____

Operation

I am using a 30 day mechanical clock movement to swing permanent magnets
thru a coil to produce an emf.
The emf is stored in a bank of capacitors which can then be discharged
into a 12 volt deep cycle battery via a pulsing method to keep the
battery fully charged.
The invention is totally scaleable. In such that the performance can be
greatly increased by:
1. Adding more magnets and coils
2. Larger and stronger magnets
3. Any number of capacitors to store electricity

What is unique about this invention is that the force required to move
the magnets through the coils is totally independent of the
magnets. The definition of a permanent magnetic motor is that it can
produce enough energy to run itself without the aid of any external
input. This design meets these criteria.
When the magnet swings in and out of the coils it will produce
a negative and positive indication on a voltmeter. The negative side is
connected to a germanium IN-34 diode. This diode is used
because unlike a standard signal diode which exhibit a 0.7 (and higher)
forward voltage drop the IN-34 exhibits on around a 0.2
dc voltage drop. This allows more emf into the capacitor to charge the
capacitor faster. The diode only allow electricity to pass on one
direction so only the positive emf flows into the capacitor.
The capacitor is a 50 volts 1000uf electrolytic air foil capacitor.
Exhibits fast emf build up and very little leakage.
The negative side of the capacitor is connected to the clock
body. The reason for this is that there is a hand connected to the hour
hand shaft witch when rotating will complete the circuit
by moving over the plastic disk.
On the disk are any number of copper (or like) strips that when the hand
touches them will complete the circuit to charge the
capacitor.
The capacitors(s) will then be pulsed into a 12volt deep cycle
motor cycle battery after a total of 16-20 volts dc have been stored in
the capacitors.
Since a bank of capacitors will store the 16-20 volts it will take
approx. 15-20 banks to pulse the battery the required number of times to
keep it charged up.
The average charge per capacitor is around 700mv. Thus to store a one
time pulse charge would require around 22 capacitors per bank. Or as
many as 400+ capacitors.
Once the motor is energized by the battery it needs to run for approx.
12 seconds to totally rewind the 30 day main spring.
The motor under the load of rewinding the main spring draws around 4.7 amps.
The uniqueness of this invention is that the moor only has to be on for
12 seconds per month. But the clock pendulum swinging just these 2 coils
can produce approx. 600 mv pr minute.
This equates out to:
1. 600 mv/min  X 60 min= 36 v/hour
2. 36 v/hr X 24 hr = 864 v/day
3. 864 v/day x 30 days = 25920 v/month

Example: If the invention was charging the capacitor at around 26
volts/pulse there would be enough stored voltage to pulse the battery
approx. 1000 times. The pulse rate should be a 1 pulse per second. Or
one could pulse for over 16 minutes to charge the battery. It only takes
about 4 minutes to recharge the battery when it has been running the
motor for 12 seconds.
The voltage drop on the battery is around 80 mv. But after about an hour
the voltage will recover 40 plus millivolts. Due to the
unique chemical properties of a deep cycle lead acid battery.
The deficit voltage of around 40 mv is equally charged up by the pulsing
method in about 3-4 minutes.

Thus the invention can run itself as well as store excess energy.

Parts List
1. Front face of mechanical clock.
1a. Clock 30 day main spring.
2. Idler assembly with sproket and tension spring.
3. 12 volt dc motor, auto window motor.
4. Permanent magnet, neo N-35 cyclinder 5/8″ x 1″.
5. Same.
6. Coil.
7. Same.
8. Diode In-34 Germanium .2 volts forward drop.
9. 1000 uf 50 volt electolytic air foil capacitor.
10. Standard Multimeter.
11. Off-On toggle switch.
12. Standard Multimeter.
13. 12 volts deep cycle motor cycle battary.
14 Plastic round plate.
15. Chain connecting clock thru idler into motor.
16. Sproket on clock.
17. Conductive hand from clock.
18. Shaft connecting plastic dial to base.
19. Clock pendulum.
20. Copper strips.

Additional Information
1. Time it takes clock hand to make one complete revolution
is 75 minutes.

2. Time it takes for hand to move over the 7 copper strips
closing the circuit to charge a bank of 7 capacitors is
11 minutes. About 1.6 minutes per cap.

3. Average voltage per capacitor stored is .575 to .725 volts.

4. Pulsed a charged capacitor from the device across a 600 ma
meter. Pegged the meter! No resistive load used. But this is
what is required to charge the battery. This was with one cap!
Do the math there is sufficient voltage and amperage generated
to do the job with a lot left over.

Much more amperage than I thought would be there.-Great news!!

5. Need to design a mechanical switching unit to be able to
discharge a bank of capacitors (around 16-20) into the
battery-the pulse need to charge the battery, only an
engineering problem.

6. Will now begin to put the full number of capacitors on the
to complete the charging cycle.

7. The battery shown in the video is connected to the motor it is
in no way running the clock or generating the electricity stored in the caps.

Here are some pics of my own from playing with the original design layout.

Here is a video Interview with Bill talking about his original design

??Still Uploading??

Many people don’t think about using the sun to heat their home during the cold months. Well, the sun puts out so much heat that it will give you a third degree burn if you were to put your body in from of the outlet tube.

1000 times more heat then any home furnace could ever put out. Here is a video on one of these home heaters. Remember that the larger you build one of these the more heat you will get.

This is not a kids easy bake oven!!! This is a serious home heating system.

Here is how you build one of these.

1st, you would need to build a frame from some wood. Remember the larger it is the more heat you will be able to collect and use.

Here are some pics for you to better understand:::

******By drilling a hole in the bottom of the cans this allows for the hot air to travel up through the hole into the next can. All the while the air is getting hotter and hotter. Pictured above there is bathtub calk used on the lip of the can so the another can be stacked on top of it.

*****Above you can see the cans stacked. This would be how you stack them into the box. You also want to use calk to secure them to the back of the box frame so they will not move.

******Above are some drawings showing some of what is explained here. Also, note that the small the hole you drill in the bottom of the cans the hotter the air will be when it reaches the outlet of the box at the very top.

******Above you can see one can with calk around it. The other one has a small hole in the bottom of it. It will be secured to the can above with the calk.

Next, you would out a back on this frame and secure it with nails or screws.

Now you would get some thin insulation and glue it to the back (inside) of the frame. After its glued into place you will want to spray paint it flat black using the same paint as you would if you were painting a BB-Q or engine block.

Now get yourself a bunch of aluminum cans and you will notice that there is already a hole in the tops of them for drinking. You want to drill a small hole in each of the bottom of the cans (about one half inch to one inch in diameter)

Next, you will want to glue the cans one on top of the other and against the insulation on the back of the frame. You can use about any strong glue however construction glue that you can buy in a tube will be the best and will not come apart easily.

Now you can paint all of the cans the same flat black that you used to paint the back of the frame.

Now take a drill an inlet hole near the bottom of the frame. About 3 or 4 one inch holes should be fine. These holes will allow for fresh air to enter into the boxed frame as the heated air escapes.

Drill a small hole near one corner of the boxed frame at the top. This will be the outlet for the heated air to be able to leave the boxed frame and enter into your home. On the back side or outside of the hole you just drilled you can mount a small computer fan (you can get one at radioshack for about $1.00) Now mount a small solar panel to the top of the boxed frame near the hole you drilled for the outlet. Mount the computer fan over the hole at the top. This will allow for the solar panel to run the small pc fan to force the heated air out of the boxed frame and into your home. (provided that you vent it into your home)

Now you can use either glass or plexi glass over the front of the boxed frame to prevent the heat from leaving without going through the aluminum cans and out the top outlet that you made.

You may also want to seal the plexi-glass to the front before securing it with screws to the frame.

Have you ever noticed how hot your car gets when it sits in the sun ever for just a few minutes? Yea, its like that accept 1000 times hotter.

With this system you will have created a solar heater that is forced air. It will only be on when the sun is out and making heat for you. Which is perfect as that is the only time you would want it on anyway.

On the outlet side near the top you can use the rolled copper tubing that you can buy at any home improvment center to vent this from the outlet hole through to your home. maybe even through a small hole in a basement window.

WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THE HEAT THAT COMES OUT OF THIS OUTLET TUBE WILL BE OVER 100 DEG. F

IF YOU SEALED THE BOX CORRECTLY IT MAY GET WELL OVER THIS.

How much heat does your furnace put out? I can guarantee its not anywhere near as hot as the air coming out of this system. In fact, you will get 3rd degree burns if you put any part of your body in front of the outlet or outlet copper tube.

Remember that the larger the frame you build the more heat that will be produced! I can not say this enough. You must be careful when using this type of system as it gets hotter then you could ever imagine.

Now all you have to do is lean this boxed frame up against the side of your home or garage making sure that the air inlet holes at the bottom are able to get air.

One person in the UK is using this system to heat his entire home. He tells me that his furnace has not kicked in the entire time due to all the heat he gets from the sun. He goes on to tell me that several timeshe had to open windows in the home to let some of the heat out as the home was 120 Deg. F inside at noon.

Here are pics of a stirling engine developed in early 1816. This was the first engine before gasoline and deisel engines were invented. You can also run this on solar heat!

These engines can run on any heat source including a mag. lense. (like the ones you used to burn ants when you were young)

Hook this up to a sun tracker and it would run forever! Well, okay maybe not forever but as long as the sun was shining or it found heat.

In this design I tried the flat washers to see what if any difference there was in the way the stainless steel was shaped.

You will be able to see the difference in the amount of HHO this one was able to produce.

I used 1 and half inch stainless steel flat washers that I got from Menards. There are 9 of them in this setup with a rubber washer in between them. Connected by a stainless steel bolt and stainless wingnut to hold it all together.

They are arranged positive, negative, positive, etc. with the last one being positive. There is one more positive then negative.

Here is a quick video on the test and what it looks like.

I tried this again this time only using about half to quarter of baking soda in the water. Before I used an entire tablespoon of baking soda and the wires got way to hot. Almost to the point of melting.

If you guys are happy with the output of HHO with your generator but are concerned about the amps and it getting hot, try to cut down on whatever it is that you are adding to your water.

The wires this time around were slightly above room temp. which is awsome.

From the different tests that I have been running it looks like the little you can add to the water the better in regards to pulling too many amps. Less amps = cooler wires and cooler water.

I may try to get some stainless steel washers to try with another one. Maybe like 20 or so put together just to see if the difference shapes make any difference in hho production.

I seen a video on YouTube that showed a guy using 19 flat stainless washers and his production looks even alot better then mine even though my plates of stainless are longer and have more surface area.

It could also be a difference in the quality of the stainless. I heard that the quality of the stainless makes a world of difference in regards to hho production as well as cooler temps.

Tonite I stated putting together the container for the hho gen that will go into my car however I need more part from the store. I got enough plastic hose (pvc) I just need more fittings for the tubing.

I am also not so sure about the spark arrestor. I see people add this however with the system running into a bubbler it must go through the water first before it can get to the intake of your car. Once it enters into the bubbler and passes through the water there is no way for the gas to go back through the water the other way.

The only spark I could see that is possible would be from the gas that is left in the tube. Which is not much and I dont think its enough to cause any damage if the worst case happens and the thing tries to explode.