LarryLawrenceJr.com

Okay, one thing I could not find was a way to make the hub “perfect”

Its important to have all the measurements correct when your blades go on otherwise you end up with your blades off balance and that is not good at. In fact its dangerous if they fly off and hurt or kill someone.

I could not do this by myself so I went across the street where there is an office of engineers that specialize in commercial building design. I figured that even though this had nothing to do with commercial buildings, one of them may help me with a basic hub for a wind turbine.

Luckly after I explained what I needed to one of the engineers he said, “oh thats no problem. Hold on a sec.”

After sitting there watching him for about 5 minutes he designed a perfect hub for ANY wind generator.

He and I then turned it into an image that could be printed out (SEE THE IMAGE BELOW) onto a piece of paper and used as a template for others that are working on their wind generator projects.

This template will allow for you to use it on any wind generator project. It will allow for a 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 blade design.

If you are using the “windows printing wizard” to print this here is what you do….

First, download the image to your desktop.

Next, open the image.

Now click on the print button or icon.

Then choose “full page fax print. Cenerted and rotated to fit”

Now your all set. Simply use this same template for no matter what size of wind generator you are going to be making.

Of course you have to cut it out….but I am sure you already figured that much;-)

As promised I took some pics of the treadmill motor wind generator project I have been playing with. This treadmill motor was purchased at my local GoodWill store, a second hand shop and was attached to a TreadMill.

Above is a pic of the treadmill motor showing the hub that I used. I went to lowes and bought a plastic cutting board and used it. Traced a circle onto it, then cut a circle into it using my jigsaw. Cutting boards make perfect hubs as they are easy to cut and drill, are made of plastic and will not rust.

Above shows the back side of the motor as its laying on my test stand. Its not mounted to anything. Just sitting there for the picture.

Above is a closeup of the small bolts holding the plastic cutting board hub bolted to the cast steel one that came on the motor. I originally tried to remove the steel hub that came with this motor but it appears to be pressed onto the shaft.

Above is a pic of the back of this little motor. You can see there are only 2 wires. One black and one white. I hooked this motors wires up to a 12 volt light for a car and then spun the shaft by hand. That action alone allowed for the light to light up. So, I knew then that this would make a great wind generator when there are blades attached to it.

Above: Is a side view of the motor with the plastic hub attached. You cant see it from this pic but there was a large bracket attached to this motor originally that I removed as it was too large to make use if it.

above: are blades that I cut from 8″ sch 40 pcv pipe. Using a basic air foil template I was able to make them all uniform and almost identical in shape and size. At this time I didnt sand the edges or taper them in any way. I will before using them though.

above: A pic of the template that I used to make the ait foil blades. Its easier to take like 3 pieces of paper, tape then together and then trace or draw the basic shape onto it, then just it out using the jigsaw.

above: Top view of the plastic hub made from a cutting board bought from lowes. At the time I didnt check to see if the dollar store carried these. They probably do though.

Attached is the uncompressed images that you can download to your computer to view. These images are very large. DialUp users are advised NOT to try to download these.

http://rapidshare.com/files/104866867/04-04-2008.zip.html

http://msurl.com/uploads/user_uploads/freenetsharkad4c/04-04-2008.zip

I found a template that I could use to make the 3 blade design for a wind generator. It seems that to find such a template on the net is a task. At least it was for me spending over an hour googling it.

Anyway, I used the template to draw onto 3 sheets of paper and then cut the design out and taped the 3 pages together.

(The pipe size below is 6″ schedule 40 )

In the picture you can see what it looks like. Unlike some of the other paterns I have seen this patern or template you would place on the outside of a pipe (pvc pipe) and just just it out using a jigsaw.

(The Top pipe is 8″ schedule 40 pvc and the lower one in the pic is 6″ sch. 40)

The cut in speed or start speed will be quicker with the 8″ pipe only because with the 8″ pipe the curve of the blade will not be as long thus allowing for the wind to pass over it more quickly and without as much effort.

The wider curve using the same template on the 6″ pipe will allow for the blades or cut in speed to start spinning at a lower wind speed but the blades will not spin as fast once they are spinning due to the extra force the wind will be subject to.

I will try to get some type of a template together that you will be able to print out and then cut onto paper for your projects. As my time permits.

I will also try to get some type of a hub or rotor template posted here to make things easier for others to be able to print them out and then cut onto paper.

One of the most important parts of this is making sure that all the mounting holes are even. If they are not the blades will be off balance and the vibration will shake the machine into pieces very quickly.

I made this blade from 8″ PVC available at our local Michigan City Indiana Lowes store. 8″ PVC was the largest that they carried. I also looked at Menards store but the largest that they had was 4″

The length overall total was 5′ (feet) The actual pvc pipe was 10′ in length but I had the store cut it in half for me so I could better get 2 five foot sections into the back seat of my car then trying to get one 10 foot piece into it. (which of course could not fit)

The center of the blades with hole. You can see from the pic (above) that I used a sander for smooth the edges. Not real sure if it will make alot of difference but I figure it probably would not hurt with the wind cut in on the blades and such.

(above) Longer view of this design out of the 8″ PVC sch #40

(above) Pic of one of the tips of the blades. I sanded it smooth using a hand sander to help the air/wind flow over the tip and maybe to cut down on the sharp edges to reduce wind noise.

above: another view of the tip of the blades.

I know this really has not much to do with wind but the wind generator/motor/alternator used in this post is from another person that is using the same generator (AC-Delco = DC-540) to get power from a water wheel. Its his application in regards to the use of this generator and his specs that I find interesting.

Click on a screenshot for large pic.

As posted from Jenson (France)

All the same here are my first, shocking test results with new permanent magnet generator 180 tooth cog on water wheel straight to a 7 tooth cog on pma.

With out generator = 21rpm

Generator (no load) = 17rpm, 425 rpm @ generator produces 31v

Generator with 12v/ 20w bulb = 13rpm, 325rpm @ generator

Generator with 12V/ 100w bulb (barely lights the bulb) = 7 rpm, 175rpm @ generator

Shocking or what eh, dunt half take some torque once you start loading the pma, I’m sure that it will loosen up a bit through use as the bearings are going to be tight at the moment.

A couple of videos this one is with a 12v/20w bulb.

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=8yyRJSvoQzE&feature=user

Now watch the wheel slow down when I put a 12v/ 100w bulb.

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=__CYMekZzNA&feature=user

I am going to try and make a 5 tooth cog or smaller but although the Teflon is tough I will be running out of diameter to play with.Once I get gearing spot on I will then get a machine shop to make me up a set of cogs but can’t afford at this stage to pay for experimenting.

I might also have to look into the possibility of modifying the mill race, I could possibly put the wheel further forward and maybe 20 or 30cm’s lower down but don’t know whether it would be worth the effort.

Jensen